The road from Magadan - then and now

• The road from Magadan - Then and Now

This trip occurred in the summer of 1967 at the Moskvich 407. Yes, almost 50 years ago. I propose to look excerpts of memories, old photos and my comments on the current road conditions Magadan - Yakutsk.

"We have for a long time lived in Kolyma -.. In remote areas of the Far North Children have grown up, and we had to move closer to the center of Russia We could send a container of things, get on a plane and depart to any city in the Soviet Union that are not time were doing, going on leave, but this time we would like to send to the central regions of the country and our fifth member of the family -.. the car "Moskvich 407" She was our friend, and we did not want to sell it or to leave here and if you drive. under its own power? The thought never left my husband and he's beginning l dream about how to implement it. If he had known what would happen, and what we get in return ... "

Kolyma highway:

Kolyma highway. Nowadays:

This sort of thing is now also popular. That is, people are leaving forever from Magadan, under its own power. On their cars. In general, it is now easier to do than in 1967. Now at least there is a road, and it is in general proezzhabelna almost year-round. But to do it in those days - that, I believe, feat.

From the manuscript:

"In early June, taking a vacation, adding to the prepared things gun and torch to the blowtorch - as a road kerosene stove, stuck the notice on the windshield They left in the direction of Yakutia..

At the beginning of the road it was good. In the center of the Magadan region for many mines, and communication between them and the Magadan was established. Kadykchan riding on the hills just started to turn green, but on the tops still lay a lot of snow, and just about had to start melting. We do not think that the small streams can turn into violent torrents. The road led to Adygalah. We settled here, our friends, and we wanted to have to spend the night. " Yes - before the road to Yakutsk passed through Adygalah and cold pole - Yakut settlements Tomtor and Oymyakon. Now this piece of track abandoned, there only people strong in spirit to be put at risk. this piece of foreigners with a light hand Yakut friends called Road of Bones (the road on the bones). Although bone prisoners-Road there is no more than the rest of the track. There's still worth bridge over Indigirka - other bridges on the road almost all washed away by the floods.

The modern route - runs through the Yakut village of Ust-Nera, and then, climbing on Olchansky pass turns into a freshly way, instead of the former winter road. Once again the old and new merge road near the bridge over the Kubyume.

Kolyma highway. Nowadays. Little has changed:

Halt:

From the manuscript:

"A friend of ours advised us to take on the road plenty of bread, a few bottles of vodka and more packs of tea -. In front of the taiga and very few settlements, but sometimes there Road houses a packet of tea or a bottle of vodka can bail out, and a loaf of bread, too."

Tip - How to work in 1967, and works. Another thing is that the tea was replaced by cigarettes. But the bread is almost no one takes. Since it seems to be right now there are no problems. But vodka can help out, as well as cigarettes.

clothes home. City Susuman. Magadan Region. Year post-rock - the end of 40-O. Still stands

Kolyma highway. Nowadays:

From the manuscript:

"In one place to wade across the river it was impossible to get there:. Very strong current and wide track to the".. Fortunately, "there was a bridge entrance to it was boarded We got out of the car, my husband tore barely fastened boards, passed over the bridge Bridge from each step. swayed from side to side of the flooring consists of two boards:.. the right and left - only the wheels We decided that we should go I'm with documents and children stayed on the beach, my husband got into the car and set up themselves to go, and I prayed to god that. he helped us to cross to the other side. My heart stopped when the machine is in Yala acceleration and moved with great speed on the bridge. The car raced, and we breathlessly watched as the bridge sways and creaks, but not falling apart. And "Hurray!" She's on the other side! We raced across the planks of the bridge, and even run on it was terrible. " What can I say. From the bridge we have the eternal problem. Although there are many modern. When I traveled to Lake Baikal, a road builder Yakut told that somewhere on the road there is a bridge built in 1947. And it still stands. On it and ride it.

While on the road, it also happens: Bridges on the Kolyma highway. Nowadays.

The federal highway Kolyma. Nowadays.

From the manuscript:

. "In front of the rise of the ridge Suntar Hayata, the height of about 3000 meters above sea level, it is followed by Sette Daban about 2300m Ascent take long, the road clinging to the rocks and the wound narrow strip up If would be a moving car, then -.. Not to disperse . in such cases it is necessary to look for a "pocket" in which it was possible to stand until pass oncoming traffic. Far below was visible pale blue ribbon of the river. The road is steep, narrow, and even it are poured stones from the rocks. I had to stop. The machine set to manual brake and all the roads were clear from from rockfall, then went on. "

Presser:

There is clearly a question of the Black snuggling. There we are. Thank God that it finally made much wider, and set up a new bridge.

But in general, difficult journey. In 1967, the old Muscovite, bald tires. Tin.

On vacation:

From the manuscript:

"Before Khandyga where we were going to find the barge was not much. Around the taiga. The road was not very good and we went, as always, with a little speed. Suddenly we heard the sound of an approaching car. It was the same moskvichok only passenger was a . he went out, carrying the camera first question was -. "Have we seen a bear?" it turns out that not far from here on the sidelines, he saw a young bear long as took out the camera, the bear rushed forward and quickly climbed a tree there it was almost... It is not visible among the needles. " Well - Bears - business as usual. Who reads me a long time, knows that they are with us on the road a lot. It's not often they appear, but there is. Now perhaps, even more than at that time.

bear traces of the pass ...

From the manuscript:

"The weather was sunny. We have once again made the pass and then went to the port. Here we are already waiting for the young man. He said that there is a place on the barge and loading will begin soon, just waiting for the tug."

On the bank of the Aldan. Khandyga:

Tug Boat:

"The next day, in the morning, began loading cargo crane car Then we moved to the barge there was another car -.... Heavy duty driver it somewhere distilled in a barge, we pitched tents and prepared for a long journey on. Aldan river, then along the Lena river and then to the Skovorodino station. The products we should have been enough to reach the destination of river travel. Finally tug gave the signal and our barge set off and went down the river.

The mood is good, everything is going according to plan. Along the banks of the endless taiga.

A few days later he woke up in the morning, we heard the familiar tug of noise. The barge was anchored at the mouth of the river Aldan. It turned out that our tow recalled shoot Grounded ship. We are not disappointed, we were hoping that he will quickly return to us. A few dozen meters from our barge was another, to lift her left there too.

We, as I said, most optimistic, but I have a family council gathered and offered to start saving products. Support I have not found, so I still have criticized that I sow panic. We, as always, prepared dinners at all, well, breakfast and dinner with his family. After a few days of steel products to end. Men also began to worry. We are always listening to the river, if the noise is heard coming ship. "Shkipersha" told us a story that a year ago she had spent the winter with his barge and now always carries with him a few sacks of flour. We were very scared. We ran out of sugar, canned food and all other stocks. "Shkipersha" once a day, fed up pies children. Men fished, though, it turned out, only two rods, but still sometimes reinforcements arrive. The barge was not far from the coast, and our men went into the forest in the hope of something to shoot. Far away they were afraid, went into the lift - to wait for a long time would not. Every time I tried to persuade them not to go long. They found in the forest wild garlic. These green vitamins have no bread was impossible, I add it to the fish soup.

One night I woke up because I heard a splash. The boat was lowered into the water, and the river came the whistle of the steamer. Our starving men swam closer and explained the situation, that we tossed the tug and barge children. We asked the captain if they have extra food. They were very sorry that we can not help but give a few loaves of black bread with dried. We promised to inform about our plight. We slurried this black bread and ate with wild garlic and fish soup, from which we all came heartburn. My younger son, Valery, asked me: "Well, at least is somewhere lost a little piece of white bread?" I pleaded as she could and children cheered men. After two or three days once the night came the horn passing steamer. He "pulled up" your turn, waited for the boat from the barge gets to them. At this time we were given to products:. Condensed milk, bread whosoever preserves, etc. My husband woke us up in the night, put the kettle to heat. And the boys were drinking tea with condensed milk and white bread. Yet we were warned that the barge did not go anywhere, t. To. I promised to send tow. We continued to catch fish, but the shore is not coming down.

Finally, after two weeks of downtime, I approached the tug. I picked up the barge and with cheerful whistles we set off in the direction of Yakutsk. All cheered. "

This, of course, all tin. It is impossible to even comment. It's just a hell of some kind. Forget the people on the barge with the children.

Wait this is not. First crossing ennobled (well, compared with loading crane on a barge), and secondly - he literally opposite the ferry is moving to the other side - there is no steam in Yakutsk, and even more so in Skovorodino. The road from Yakutsk to Khandyga built yet. However, just such. Solid clay and sand. The rain scared limp, dry weather - horror as cracks.

This is such a trip. In the manuscript so much more. But the relationship to the highway Kolyma has not. so I will not spread. Although there is more to read. In general - were the same people. You could sit down and go to those distant years when properly and the road-it was not. Respect and uvazhuha such people!