Life on the edge of the earth
• Life on the edge of the world
In Tiksi Oleg brought when he was less than one year. It was the spring of 1975. His father, Vladimir Nikolaevich distribution sent to Tiksi work supervisor at the airport. There he worked for twenty years dispatcher, and completing his career as head of the Arctic ATC (air traffic control). In the arctic Tiksi passed all his childhood Oleg and all his school years.
In the spring, when they open the navigation, we are all children climbed to the roof of my house and waited ... We know that is about to come to an icebreaker to Tiksi, from day to day. And when he finally appeared on the horizon, such a large object, followed by a convoy that was frost on the skin ... It's a lifetime memory remains.
Spring in Tiksi weather is capricious, and, as I mentioned earlier, not everyone can fly to the village on the first try. Yes, and you can fly with a delay of a couple of days, and then we can spend the whole week in anticipation of summer weather.
But our group is able to cause weather. We were lucky. The wind was blowing south from the continent. We did a sunset over the bay of Tiksi and sat down with the north. Straight to our arrival the weather hastened to improve. The photograph shows a part of the village (Tiksi-3) and the airport runway. White box in the foreground - the Laptev Sea.
On arrival at the airport we were met by Tiksi Tepsayev Lechi, a friend of Oleg's father. He greeted us on polar land and talked with us and gave some practical advice where and what to see in the village. For that he thanks a lot!
All my childhood was spent in Tiksi airport. My parents were at work, and after school I went there too. Often, after school, I came to the airport to her parents, and her father's control tower to do their homework. Sometimes, when there was a snowstorm, I was brought back to the TCU-kyo.
Tiksi was founded as one of the points of the Northern Sea Route, which was the northernmost airfield jump strategic aviation of the USSR. We flew here from time to time on our teachings "bears" Tu-95 and catching up fear in Americans.
In past years, the airport was heavily loaded. Today, not even compare - on the day of one civilian, and a couple of military missions. In my high school years in the town was very lively, and the planes were flying constantly. One night, my father called and immediately taken by car to the airport. He flew passenger side, and he had no landing gear. The plane was sent to a nearby airfield tundra. He now abandoned. My father led the managers during that landing. All went well, they put the plane's belly in the snow. And sometimes, as in the strong snowstorm wind tore wire ropes planes AN-2 and drove into the tundra. Or it happened that broke the blade in the MI-8. They then searched for hundreds of meters away from the field.
Once in Tiksi flew C-5 Galaxy, the largest strategic transport aircraft the US Air Force.
Elegant and only hotel in Tiksi. Now the fourth floor mothballed and abandoned. the standard price for the polar region - 1900 rubles for hospital beds, or 3800 for a double room. Toilet and shower on the floor. Paper is better to buy in advance.
How many there were children's happiness, a little further over the railing on rulevikah, sledding, snow-cats ...
All the windows in the rooms covered with polyethylene as an additional insulation. Therefore, the view from the window can only be assessed in the lobby. Directly behind the hotel was a football field. There almost every summer football championship among departments TOAE (Tiksi united squadron). Still, even the gates were left.
Right - Oleg house, on the right - his school. Children in the village were very many. The school odnogodok divided into three parallel class. Oleg often ran to school without wearing garments even in the dead of winter. Today the school - one of the most well-kept buildings in the village. Front of the house and the school took place, and now goes by the heating main. She walks down the street, because the permafrost is problematic to let the pipe underground. Therefore built special ducts for laying pipes. High school students from the school ran into the heating duct during breaks to smoke, it was warm and not seen ...
Over the years, the village has accumulated a large amount of large debris. Export very large piece of iron is not beneficial from as far away. Therefore, here and there blackened skeletons of cars and other vehicles or obscure dwellings.
I once again remind you that attracts me as a photographer these semi-abandoned antiutopichnye species. Seen enough in his childhood Kin-Dza-Tzu)
The whole upper part of the village was occupied by the military. In Tiksi-3 was AOH - Operational group in the Arctic. The airfield was strategic, and while it was relevant, was a completely different life at the airport and the village. Military units are local economic mainstays. There lived not only to military pilots and all those connected to the airport. It also has a construction and food units. Not far from our home ranks hozpostroek stood where the military kept a pig farm and breeding cows. Yes, in our arctic Tiksi were once cow, they walked straight through the village. But they left together with the military.
Now because animals were dogs and cats only.
Between the houses for 20 years before the beginning of the nineties was a children's hockey field. Played without skates, but with sticks on the ice. Almost every winter evening (in any frost, but no blizzard) children from nearby houses were performed here, while their parents watching them through the windows. This yard was filled with children and children's cries.
And this is some of the houses looked after week snowstorm in Tiksi. Please note the entrance to the staircase dug through huge snowdrifts.
Stas in one of the abandoned military homes.
All the wooden houses are frozen and abandoned. Yes, and most of the stone buildings looking onto the street windows boarded up. It Tiksi surrealism in Hollywood for such decorations are paid millions.
Fragments of the hostel young professionals aircrew. Settling in the building, came the distribution of the pilots, dispatchers, flight navigators and technology, are fully aware of all the delights of polar life. But, it was always in harmony, peace and fun. All helped each other.
Pipes boiler №25. Right in the frame structure of household services. There was a grocery store, famous for once voentorg, hairdresser, shop.
Gym. In Tiksi youth leisure it was well organized. From football, volleyball, table tennis, completing a circle hams. Probably, there was no Tiksi teenager who is not in this gym an occupation.
And this is a kind of central square Tiksi seventies and eighties. Adorned its MiG-15. You can responsibly say that there was not a single child in Tiksi, who once would not have climbed on it for photos. There was also an ice rink, a garrison house officers.
The central square of thirty years ago.
Boxes on the windows. They were almost in every apartment kitchen. The people called them "refrigerator Arctic". There's a long time kept the fish and venison.
Modern Sight Tiksi - signpost to different cities in the world.
The Motherland has always been, but the church was built about five years ago.
Many families put in front of his home container. It was not hard to get in the sea port. Such containers were sheds. They kept frozen foods, things, all the things that do not need the apartment. When another family left Tiksi, in these containers were exported items and furniture.
Almost all the houses in the village are on stilts. Those buildings, where pile outwardly closed - a popular place for children to play in the "war games", and hide and seek.
This view Brusnev island. A popular place for picnics spring, when the air is already warm, but the ice is still reliable. Trekking back and forth quite annoying ... Village of the photograph seems very close, but it is misleading. The nearest houses more than five kilometers of ice.
Port of Tiksi is located in one of the most remote areas of the Northern Sea Route, and is the main supply base and ensure all maritime cabotage navigation in the eastern part of the Russian Arctic. The port operates only during the summer season, which lasts only 90 days.
In Tiksi there are several grocery stores. Goods in the 1.5 - 2 times more expensive. Bottle Bonaqua - 220 rubles. A kilogram of potatoes - 200 rubles.
Oleg has been living in Voronezh and is engaged in restoration of the car. He says that in Tiksi and its suburbs rust many interesting and rare exhibits. However, to deliver them to the "mainland" - a very difficult task.
Tiksi - paradise UAZ. All UAZ, which are well-behaved in life, fall in Tiksi.
On the day when we had to depart, the last rays of the sun had Tiksi illuminate the tail of the military aircraft that an unsuccessful landing skidded off the runway and broke. More on this day we have not seen the sun. I began to blow a suspicious air, burning the face with snow. In the morning I called the airport Lechi Tepsayev. He said that the airport is closed.
Uncle Misha suggested that the so-approaching snowstorm. Oleg says that sometimes in a blizzard swept so that the school was canceled.
Sometimes you wake up, and the window can not see anything. I immediately included radio. At 7 am declared. Said local broadcasting center of the village of Tiksi. Due to weather conditions canceled classes in schools from the first, and depending on the power of a snowstorm, to fifth, seventh or even the tenth grade. Sudden weekend issued a few days each month, then the truth had to complete their education. It happened that in June, studied, practiced accumulated days. In bad weather the villagers is not highly recommended to leave the house. Employees responsible positions during a blizzard transported on tracked vehicles.
In the "captain's house" lived the airport management. In summer, walking distance from the house to the airport, we caught lemengov tundra. Back in the village we returned to the airport bus, with full banks and pockets of these polar mice ...
Abandoned station satellite communication system "Orbit".
Her twelve-dish and looks at the sky, as if still hoping to get a signal from the satellite ...
Tiksi predicting a big rise in terms of the life of the village and its infrastructure. There are going to build a mobile nuclear power plant reactor on nuclear submarines, the end of their term. Also, by 2018 it is planned to deploy a unit of naval aviation. It is hoped that these plans come true, and breathe new life into Tiksi.
The good news came from the airport. We cleared the runway and the airport opened. Our board took off from Yakutsk and as said Lechi, if it comes to a square, it is already sure to be seated.
And the sky is overcast. The wind pushed me in the back, as if he wanted to push me closer to the sea. Inside the alarm originated.
But, praise the weather, and airline pilots Yakutia, our AN-24 roared screws, successfully landed in Tiksi airport. Very quickly - in less than an hour, all the passengers were already seated in the plane. All departing involuntarily hurry, feeling the force pushing against a blizzard. Nobody tupil.
AN rumbled its turboprop engines and taxied for takeoff. The rising wind pushed the plane - they say come on, rather to leave on Vzletka, turn around, but to take off already.
Shake start immediately. For an hour we flew through a blizzard. The plane then throwing up, pressing the people in the seats, then thrown down so that I could not help remembering the aerobatics training on the Yak-52. When I showed the snap roll, loop, and hover in weightlessness.
Poor stewardess gripping the shelves hardly had time to distribute passengers hygienic paper bags. Still Tiksi let us ...